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Where does art begin? For some it is on a canvas, blank and willing to accept the changes printed upon it. For others, clay or wood allow an artist to work with their hands creating lasting works for generations to share. For those like Tal Blushtien, a classically trained pastry chef, it can begin with something as technical as the fermentation of yeast or simple such as the slicing of strawberries. The culinary arts world is rich in colors and flavors, and it takes a true artist to balance them all correctly.
But how does Blushtien begin to think about the confectionary artwork he creates?
“Most of my recipes still have a deep connection to the classical French pastries,” he says. Blushtien, a native Israeli, was trained in Paris after all, where the boulangeries “looked like jewelry stores, and the pastries were given so much respect in how they were boxed and presented.”
It was in Paris where his formal pastry training began, first at Ferrandi, one of the most acclaimed culinary arts schools in the world. Then with real world training during his internships at The French Bastards and Yann Couvreur.
“When I was doing my internships is when I first started to experiment with my own recipes,” remembers Blushtien. After his schooling at Ferrandi, he enjoyed learning different working conditions, and dealing with faster paced environments.
“The time I spent in both internships taught me how to work in the real world.” Taking this experience with him Blushtien has eagerly traveled the world working in different kitchens, learning cultural methods, and combining them with his own background, defining his own style.
In a world where processed foods are everywhere, Blushtien honors natural and organic flavors. “Food needs to look fresh, but it also needs to be made with natural ingredients,” he begins. Often the most brilliantly colored, eye catching pastries use artificial coloring and flavors that take away from the taste. “I am always looking for natural coloring alternatives, using Pandan for green is a great example I learned in Thailand,” says the native Israeli.
“It might sound counterintuitive, but I try to balance the health factor of my recipes,” Blushtein understands the irony behind healthy pastries. “I try to optimize every aspect of the recipe, the type of flour is important as is the sugar I use,” the pastry chef strives to perfectly balance all of his recipes.
His flavors are both seasonal and regional but most importantly pay homage to the country’s own cuisine. “I love to learn different flavors, and ingredients, but also how countries use ingredients differently,” Blushtien remains open to learning well past his days at Ferrandi.
It is this ethos and dedication to natural flavors that has spurred the Israeli born pastry chef’s imagination. Blushtien has traveled to over 40 different countries, many of them on his culinary journey and incorporates those local flavors into his own recipes.
“I love to use what I have learned in other countries to help me alter my recipes,” he says. With an eye towards more “savory” desserts, the native Israeli loves using Mediterranean herbs to freshen up and add a unique depth of flavor to his creations.
By embracing an approach that pays homage to his traditional roots but remains open to new ideas, Blushtien can focus on making his creations look all the more creative. Eschewing traditional plating he says, “I like to highlight the fresh produce that I am using and let the natural colors and flavors take over.”
This approach allows Blushtien more freedom on the plate. Each piece of the dessert is like a puzzle, it fits and serves a purpose. Micro herbs are used not only to adorn a dish but to add an earthy element and secondary layer of flavor. He uses natural jellies to both hold items in place and add a vibrant gloss to his creations. His plates remain simple but elegant, with an emphasis on flavors while letting the elegant dishes entice the eye.
For Tal Blushtien baking and creating desserts has always been a natural process. Seamlessly combining old world and new world techniques he effortlessly creates works of art to be enjoyed thoroughly. His dedication to the art and continually evolving are evident in each confectionary masterpiece as they delight each and every sense along the way.
