The Essential Guide to Buying Chainmail Jump Rings!

I’m sure you’re well aware of chainmail, mostly seen in the form of metal or maybe from the Lord of the Rings movies. What you may not be aware of is buy chainmail jump rings, also known as mail chain mail, or chainmail can make many other things other than amour. You can make jewelry bracelets, necklaces, rings, earrings, clothing bikini tops, belts, shirts, ties art, and much more from rings very small to quite large in stainless steel, aluminum, sterling silver, copper, bronze, and even gold.

When you buy jump rings, they are neither fully open nor fully closed. to start using them you will need to go through and open each one. Start with thicker gauges like 18 or 16 – the bigger the number, the thinner the wire – and practice with base metal rings until you get the hang of it.

The fundamental chain mail devices are a pair of needle-nosed pliers and a couple of bent-nosed pliers. The insides of the jaws should be perfectly smooth. Jagged jaws will damage the wire and are not suitable for jewelry making. Jewelry pliers are available at most jewelry-supply stores and the best quality versions may also be found at hardware stores since they are used by electricians.

The Building Blocks of Chainmail – Rings

Almost all buy chainmail jump rings uses. Primarily rings of metal but they can also be found in plastic and rubber as well. A ring, or in the jewelry industry a jump ring, is simply a loop of wire forming a ring usually butted together. The wire is wrapped around a mandrel, a long metal rod, into a coil. The coil is then removed and the rings are individually cut off the coil.

4 Basic parts of a Ring

Gauge – the diameter of the wire used to make a ring

Inside Diameter (ID) – the distance across the inside of a ring excluding its gauge

Aspect Ratio (AR) – the ID divided by the gauge, both in decimal form (e.g..25″ instead of 1/4″)

Cut – a type of cut produced when a ring is cut off a coil. Cuts are pinch, sheer, machine or saw cuts.


Is the thickness or diameter of an amount of wire the more miniature the gauge number, the dense the wire or the vaster the diameter. There are three preceding types of wire meter measurements; British Imperial Standard (SWG), American or Brown and Sharp (AWG), and AWG Metric.

Inside diameter (ID)-

Is the diameter of the ring calculated on the inside from side to side when completed. The meter of the wire is not part of the ID. If a task calls for a 5/16″ ring it means that the inside diameter of the ring, when calculated across, is about 5/16″. about because most metals when twisted on a mandrel, and then carried off, “spring” back to some period slightly widening the ID. The ring size is born from the diameter of the mandrel utilized to coil the wire to create the rings and not the exact diameter after jump-back.

Aspect ratio AR-

Is the ratio of the internal diameter separated by the gauge, in decimal form. Create sure both the internal diameter and gauge are in decimal form and both are established in either inches or millimetres. This becomes a “dimensionless” number. It gives you a number that describes the gauge compared to the inside diameter which helps decide how to size up or down rings for a given project that was done in another ring size.

The cut-

Is the type of cut produced on the ring when it’s cut from a coil. The pinch cut looks like this. This type of cut is usually produced with hand tools such as a wire cutter. The shear cut produces a diagonal slice but the ends don’t match up perfectly and sometimes the rings become deformed during the cut. A machine cut is made by a machine that’s made to coil and cut rings. The cut is usually a combination of the pinch and shear cut. The saw cut is made by a saw that cuts the ring off this is the best cut as the ends line up flush and produce the best closure of the ring. It’s also the most expensive type of ring to sell.


The material of your rings is important. Most rings are metal and come in a vast selection including aluminum, stainless steel, gold or silver, titanium, and more. Your choice of ring material will depend upon your budget, the project you’re making, and availability. Bright aluminum is easy to work with while stainless steel can quickly wear your hands if unused to it.

Grab the right side of the ring with the bent-nosed pliers so that the bent tips are parallel with the cut and the needle-nosed pliers. To open a ring, simply twist the bent-nosed pliers toward you. Do not twist more than about a quarter of a turn, as overuse of the “hinge” will eventually lead to breaks.

To close a ring, the jump ring should be held in the same way. Since metal is a little springy it is not possible to simply reverse the steps. If you twist the ring back into what looks like the correct position and let go, it will spring out of place. To get a perfect close, twist a little beyond the closed position, then back a little open, and rock back and forth two to three times until the sides sit firmly in place. Apply a very slight inward pressure – not so much that the sides pop over one another, but a little bit will help get an invisible close. Once closed there should be no visible gap between the two sides of the jump rings and running fingers over the seam should not feel sharp.

Mubashir Ali
Author: Mubashir Ali

I am Mubashir Ali.I am SEO expert.Internet Entrepreneur | Digital Marketing Expert | Marketing Consultant | Email: [email protected] Website:

About Mubashir Ali

I am Mubashir Ali.I am SEO expert.Internet Entrepreneur | Digital Marketing Expert | Marketing Consultant | Email: [email protected] Website:

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